Time to Fly!

We just got through airport security...3 haulbags, a 100 lb duffle, and carry-ons full of gear! TSA guys had a blast pulling out each cam and sling.  But, here we sit, about to take flight.  Just wanted to thank everyone for all your support with this trip! We couldn't have dreamed of this opportunity without you;) we'll keep you posted-

Gettin' Ready- Torres del Paine

        Ohh Man , here we go! The bags are packed and the clock is counting down. We, for last month or so, have been sewing haulbags, repairing tents, altering bivies, and doing a whole lot of duck taping. The preparation for this trip has not been easy- paper work had to be filed, topos gathered and problems had to be solved. The weight, size and overall dimensions of the bags for traveling internationally were a constant burden, and figuring out what goes, what doesn't, what are we forgetting and what have we brought too much of has spun through our minds for the last two months. We have had to modify equipment, replace our scuzzy cameras, upgrade from the old to the new, always with the knowledge that forgetting one little detail could affect so much of our trip.

Here are some important details about just getting started, if you think you are going to “Taste the Paine”.

• Join the American Alpine Club- http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/sales
  By joining the AAC you our given rescuers insurance, which is mandatory to enter/ climb in Torres del Paine National Park. It is also a great community to be apart of.
• Check out Erratic Rock's website- they are the local Hostel and Guide Service. On their website they have a step by step process which needs to be followed for receiving your climbing permit. http://www.erraticrock.com/information/information-articles-1/torres-del-paine-climbing-permits/
• DIFROL (Dirrección de Fronteras y Limites del Estado) –This is the “Pre Permit” to getting the ball rolling. Fill it out!
  http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.difrol.cl/&prev=/search?q=www.difrol.cl&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=OFa&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=X&ei=ytO8UJ6IGIn5igKIyIDgDw&ved=0CDwQ7gEwAA
• Booking your flights- While you seek out your ticket, it is extremely important that you look into the Baggage Fees, Weight limits and Size Limits. To go big walling in Torres del Paine, you need a lot of things, of all different shapes and sizes. It can get quite pricy as well as frustrating. Check with your airlines on the dimensions allowed for a cylindrical bag (haulbag) since it is not the standard rectangular size. You are allowed to bring the climbing rack as carry-on. Leave drill bits, piton and hammers in checked baggage.

• The two main international destinations from the US are Buenos Aires, Argentina and Santiago, Chile. Many visitors to the far south, such as Torres del Paine, chose a domestic flight to Punta Arenas or Rio Gallegos. One thing to consider if planning a big trip with lots of baggage, is that you will get charged again for your excess weight...in our case about $500. So, we opted for a 2 day bus ride.
• Be cognizant of where you are going: South America's seasons are reverse of those in the USA, winter is summer, fall is spring, etc. Pesos are used, and it's good to know the exchange rate before you arrive http://www.exchangerate.com/. Spanish is spoken (very different from the Spanish spoken in Mexico).
• Also, be sure to prepare for some fierce weather...the Torres del Paine National Park temps online say between 40-60F, but that is considered without wind (which could reach 100 mph) and the wet. If planning on traveling around Chile or Argentina during your stay, the variations between temperature can be quite vast because of the large land masses of the countries. San Pedro de Atacama, for example, could be in the 100's while Torres are in the 30's!

• Many of the items you will need during your stay can be found in Puerto Natales: internet, skype cafes to call home, good assortment of food, etc. However, bring all of your own climbing and hiking gear, as it can be very expensive to buy/rent down south.

 Here are some pictures of the haulbags that we had to create for the up coming expedition as well as the packing nightmare.  A simple layout of 2 inch webbing gets the ball rolling

 Making a mess!

2 inch webbing all stitched up

 If you look at the Walking Axe on the Duffel Bag we have made a bolt-on Dead-man Anchor to use the axe as a shovel or trenching tool

 Bottom of the Bag... Clean!

 All Built!

The Whitney Portal Hostel in Lone Pine Ca, has been our staging ground for our trip. Allowing us to sew, make a mess and sleep. They have great rates, employees and the Owner is one hell of Guy.

http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/

 Organizing, packing and trying to make sense of what to take and what to leave.

 This bag, now that is packed and waiting for the plane weighs in at 99lbs. There are going to be some fees on this one!

 More Bags and Equipment... Ahhh it is going to be heavy!

 Some custom chopped and ground iron. Its heavy, but necessary.

And some good lookin' Hooks.

 There is Power Pack in this picture ( the thing that looks like a laptop) we invested in total solar power and rechargeable batteries. Four months in the rocks would require a whole lot of AA's

Advance Tech HX 5 to 1 Haul System by SMC

Its a great tool that works with ease, when fighting against friction, gravity and weight.

Day Needle- A proper topo

BCB on the Prow, was our big one last year...   Here is a topo.

Click Here for Larger Image

Keeler Needle -Blood of the Monkey VI, 5.12 ... TOPO!

     Here is a topo of the the route that Amy and I Established over a Period of ten days on the wall of Keeler Needle at 14'000ft.  We moved capsule style up the wall, free climbing all pitches.

    Blood of the Monkey VI, 5.12 16 pitches

 Click Here for Larger Version of Topo

Click Here for Larger Version of Over Lay

Day Needle-BCB on the Prow VI, 5.10A2 & Keeler Needle-Blood of the Monkey VI 5.12

Trip Report and Video on Keeler Needle- Blood of the Monkey
     

Video Trip Report- Attempt One on Keeler Needle trying for the Winter Ascent


Trip Report and Photos on Day Needle-BCB on the Prow
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 Follow Blood of the Monkey on www.SUpertopo.com

Amy Sends!!!

It's Amy's Birthday today and as gift to herself she went for the East ridge of Lone Pine Peak solo. This finishes her Quest of all three ridges solo on Lone Pine Peak... Not bad I say!
Over the last Year in half she has bagged this colossal Mountain from all sides to only finish with a 3 mile ridge line by herself.

BOOM!!

Nothin' like climbing on to a Giants Shoulders from the Desert floor.



Happy Birthday Darlin'

October trip to Yosemite

    Our trip to the Yosemite Valley; Wild, Fast and Scary! After pulling into Camp 4 and denied a site, we got some restless sleep with Senior El Capatain. Climbers roam the wall with torches ablaze. Six or more Adventures were at work. We score cell-block 29. Simul-climbing by ten O'clock on Manure Pile Buttress we soar though After Six, After Seven and Nut Cracker. Sweat is poring off of us! A bottle neck at the Mantle on Nut Cracker. Under the parties of our fellow travelers we go, greasy, hot slab awaits. We bypass climbing sandpaper and moss. Back to camp dropping the 8.2 simule-rope for a real one. Off to Serenity-Sons. Hot! We bleed and send. Sleep.

Bear Boxes clang and slam from all the awaking soldiers. Amy is excited about the on-sight solo of Royal Arches about to take place. Meeting more Comrades at the start and in the belly of the Beast, they slide through with ease. We swing on the Pendulum with packs on our back, we have a plan. Amy slams the Tower above the hollow, springing tree, laced with jugs. The final exposed slab we take and feel the relief. North Dome we trudge toward. Awesome and bizarre slab climbing weaves through the Crest Jewel. Mystery relics appear on the left at times from past explores. “Where's” and “whose”, wander through our mind with “whats that?” as we climb. We greet a Baby Cub on the summit as he dashes down the descent trail. Where's Momma Bear?

We take Rest.

     We approach the Sentinel. Welcome greetings from a man named Jake belaying an unknown Leader while we rack tools. They are strong and fast. We start simul-climbing, Jake and Peter hang waiting for us to pass. Through Wilson's Overhang we go. Amy is unhappy with all the equipment and bag O' supplies. She passes through the wydes with nothing, but strength and style. We start pitching full rope lengths. Jake and Peter have swapped their blocks. Jake moves! We hang in a cave eating our feast of nothing below the Narrows. Jake goes through the slot then Peter follows. We watch as Peter tries to squeeze his giant body through the chasm. Legs dangle and wiggle in space as he inches up. Amy takes the reins and chases quickly through the heart of the giant. I push for the top hearing Peter and Jake sound “Good Bye! See you on the Descent!” A shuffle through the equipment and only one usable headlamp we head for the way off in sandals. We have just found the Boys. “Rock!” I yell as the ground gives way under me. Blocks fly though the gully as Peter and Jake dive out to the walls. I got Peter. He is “fine” he says and continues as if nothing happened. Strong! We clash beers together at their rolling palace. We talk about favorite pitches and future plans. We are now friends and will see each other again.

    Appropriately enough we clash beers over our dinner on the rest day. We talk about traveling to Patagonia. Jake and Peter fill us with all kinds of useful information on the region. They are excited as are we.

The Lower Cathedral Spire, Higher Cathedral Spire and The Braille Book we wake to climb. Starting on lower spire we climb with enjoyment, simul-climbing the first four pitches. We shoot of the Regular Route and jump onto South by South-West. Amy racks for the 5.10d pitch. It fights her as she works it out. She commits. The steep, slightly overhanging wall greases her off, the double 00” t.c.u rips, she goes even further. She reels her self in. The rope has been slightly melted and core shot twice. Good thing the piton held. We swap. The climbing is stout and totally enjoyable. Amy takes us through a hole to the summit. We rappel and start soloing up the ridge-saddle to link into the higher spire. We part a bush then through a half dead oak. “Ow! It must be an oak leaf in my sock, AHHH!”. Ow! Amy starts screaming. “Its Bees!!!”. We start soloing and trying to move! Ow! Ow! Amy is below me being totally attacked. I jump down to her and start plucking Meat Bees out of her hair as quick as I could. Another one gets me in the ear. We start hauling ass up the mossy wall, trying to get away. We have no rope or harness, they are in the pack. We hit a ledge and are forced to rope up. I can feel a few bites, Amy has no idea how many she has. She is in a lot of pain. We get to the base of the Higher and bee line straight to the car. We need Benadryl. We swell and feel bad for ourselves.

   The next morning everything is swollen and puffy. We pack the car and head back to Lone Pine cutting the trip short by a few days. We are happy with what we had done. Amy got to see Yosemite Valley finally, we got to see some future endeavors, but now it is time to ice our stings.