Heading back in for round two

Hey family and friends, just wanted you know that we are heading back into the park for another month or more. We got the horses loaded with 200lbs of food and a bag full of duct tape and glue to repair our torn up equipment. As always thank for the support. We got a 5 hr trek to our base camp in just a few minutes,then we have to cross a cravase -cesspool of a glacier to retrieve our haul bags to only move them to the next wall. We will be looking at the big one on this trip...The Central Tower. It's a beast of wall, but it sure is a lot better quality then what we were on before. There are two routes we are looking at possibly trying to free, but that all depends on all kinds of things.

Mom we'll be safe and Pops we'll get er done!

Talk to you laters

Plate Tectonics VI 5.12 C1, East Face of the North Tower of TorresdelPaine

Videos and American Alpine Journal Write-ups from Patagonia here...

http://roamingbanditos.blogspot.com/2013/11/old-but-new-full-stories-from-down.html

It was only possible because of the prayer flags, a gift from a wise Alaskan couple for our expedition. They were to bring us luck, which they certainly did. We were lucky. Lucky for the weather, lucky for all the disasters that didn't occur but so easily could have, and most of all, lucky to be here today to tell the tale...

This was our first international expedition. At home in the Sierra we had climbed many big-walls together, putting up our own routes on walls of much higher elevation, but this adventure was different. We were going to climb the biggest walls either of had ever attempted in a place full of unknowns, full of mystery. The only thing we knew for certain was to expect the unexpected- Torres del Paine in Patagonia was going to be a wild ride!

After months of planning, we finally arrived, with hundreds of pounds of rope, food, and equipment in tow. With the help of a porter and horses, we established base camp after a week of hiking loads in the never-ending rain. It was days before we even saw the towers because of constant white-outs. We heard horror stories from our fellow climbers: bad weather, rock fall, and mazes of glaciers would all have to be overcome. We immediately chose to go for a new route on the east face of the north tower. Many teams opt for routes on the west side because they are smaller and more user-friendly. But for us, when looking at the giants, it only seemed proper to go from bottom to top, capsule style, up the largest face possible. After months back home getting ready for this trip, we convinced ourselves that this first excursion would be our practice run , preparing us for the next three months...we had no idea!

We hoped to put up a moderate 5.9/5.10 free route...we ended up with a grade VI, 5.12,C1, 20 pitch route that took 15 days on the wall to complete. We lived off two instant soups, two bags of tea, and a handful of instant mashed potatoes for our last three days. The portaledge rain-fly cannot be used again due to the amount of rock and ice fall it endured, our 4 ropes are trashed, the haul bags we had to throw off in order to escape the clutches of the wall are destroyed, and our souls are diminished. The climbing transformed from okay, to good, to great. We were gifted by the weather, even though we did encounter freezing rain, gail-force winds, and moments of complete whiteness.

We learned a lot. Although sun is a welcome, warming friend in the wee hours of the morning, the melting of snow and ice that plummets down from above must be noted. Rain is an entirely different component than snow. Helmets are great, even at night when you sleep. Quitting mid-route from frustration and then later choosing to continue means you have to ration food, which is never fun when you are starving! Using new equipment for the first time on a big-wall is a bad idea. And, accepting and changing tactics is always welcome.

We summited by the skin of our teeth. We were trapped in the ledge the entire day afterward due to a white-out. Now, we are skinny, tired, and ready for the comforts of town. We will recharge and go back at it with some new methods. There are still two more towers to be climbed...

Plate Tectonics
VI, 5.12, C1, 20 pitches
Amy Ness and Myles Moser
Jan. 9-23, 2013

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/F-A-Plate-Tectonics-VI-5-12-C1-East-Face-of-the-North-Tower-of-Paine/t11832n.html

Two more buses

Well the last bus was late by two hours. Now we are two buses away from the entrance of the park... We are dieing to swet and work in the vertical world.

To my family... Love you and thanks for the support!

Chow!

Eve before Christmas

Eve before Christmas

So two nights ago Amy and I had an amazing experience with the locals. After the 20 minute bus ride which was actually a 45 minute ride to a zoo of a city with one ATM  and a line that would run around the corner... A waiter that hated us and some exhausted sleeping on a bus and we we were back en la Playa before dark. Time for some music. The restaurants around here blast music from all directions... The whole trip I have been waiting for this moment.... LIVE MUSIC!!!

We got a map... Not a clue where we are going... Not a post with a sign in sight...

We make it not a hundred yards from the front door when the constant drumming noise we have been hearing is discovered. A massive drum circle with a beat that can only be describe as "BOOM!" is taking place. Drums the size of wine barrels in a variety of shapes are creating a storm.  Ten to fifteen drummers setting the mood. The locals-  swinging... Dancing, stomping. Dust from the feet and yells of excitement come from all directions. 

Well, it didn't  take Long for Amy and I to catch the rhythm.  Right in the middle of the road. Cars  would creep by with only smiles, mopeds would drop into first gear. All natural and wild excitement took place. The sound and setting was perfecto!  

"Lo quieras?" One of the drummers asks some of the people. 

"Lo  quieras?" 

"Si, si, si" I say.

Not an idea what to do, but who hasn't pounded on a bucket or made music in the kitchen with utensils.  The guy setting the beat had a mondo drum! I tried following his rhythm and they didn't care. But one guy caught on.... And I was Booted! This old man took the drum from me.  He started pounding  it with such ferocity and rhyme that the whole circle followed his beat.

They then started to fall into line... 

Then the rhythm took of... They nailed it!!!

Feet stomping and filing together they began to march up the road... Unreal! 

That was only the beginning...

We had the treasure map to the local bands location...

"Is this the right way? Lets try this road? Where is a damn street sign? Check out that VW Bus! Whoa it's getting dark. This hill is steep! "

Este Central Avenida ? 

"Si!"

La musica?

"Si!" as she flys by on her bike.

We must be getting close! 

Oh yeah, you can hear the noise.

The place is packed with locals. A tiny little stage and Boom... The band begins to play. Look at that timing. We are jammin' once more. The band is great and everyone was loving it. As we looked around we started to realize all the drummers from before were there... It was awesome! 

Yeah... We got funny looks for being in the middle of the crowd, among a group of  close neighboring friends.  Not understanding  what was being completely sung was also amusing.  But the music was local, classic, flowed, ripped and made everything feel alright.

Nothing but friends and acquaintances were made that night.

Luckily the way home was down hill and the wind along the coast was at our backs.... A wild night and and thus far a wild trip thru Punta del Diablo! Jeezzz these people stay up late... I think it's the heat during the day.

...Well it's Christmas Eve and the weather is sweet. To all of Our Family and Friends... We  would like to say, We Love You  and wish many bloated bellies and smiles over the holiday.  Many beers clashed, corks popped and loved passed around. The days are counting down for the main part of the trip to began. From hiking loads in, to swinging on ropes,  to feasting on the shoulders of a Giant  and seeing how far the spit can fly from the wall. Pretty excited to drag a massive haulbag in tow, in the vertical world and sea of granite.

Merry Christmas and Thank You for the Support in so many ways.

    

Day four en la Playa

Day four en la playa

So I have finally figured out that the sun rises over the ocean, which is compass East. No mountains in the way, just a straight blast of heat!Pretty wild. Growing up in a town on the coast I found mornings to be more pleasant at the beach, where as here- late... late in the evening is best. The sun is much more gentle then. The girls and I are fully cooked lobsters currently.  Luckily, la casa has a giant aloe plant. 

I'm starting to get un poco gordo porque la comida y cerveza. The hands are starting to peel and molt from lack of use. Picking up seashells is more fun than the idea of bouldering. Secret beaches feel as if they are around every bend. The other day a man was 50yrds out with water only up to his knees... Made me think of sharks. Then of course Amy's Mom had a story about that situation, which we won't go into details about...  Last night we wandered the roads enjoying the night- life with the locals.  I couldn't resist the soccer ball being passed around in the street. The sandals came off and I gave it my best. The kid was fast, tricky and good. He megged me four times. Seeing that he had a smaller stance I was already at a disadvantage... I had zero. We played what felt like hours, but I'm sure it was probably twenty minutes. Not too bad for not moving faster than a walking speed for the last seven years. It was fun to teach him some tricks and technique, even though he destroyed me. Every time he megged me, we could hear his father, friends, my girlfriend, her family and people on the porches of the restaurants cheer... Avoiding the mopeds was a constant issue.  The tourists were a whole other obstacle, as well as the broken bricks, uneven dirt and yes, even the feral dogs... It was great!  I think I have broken seashell in my big toe... 

Well it's early in the morning and we have to catch a twenty minute bus ride to the next town. We have to find an ATM and seek out Internet to send this off.

Hope all is well state side... And I gotta get this thing out of my toe

"Amy where are the tweezers?"

 

La Casa en la Playa

La casa en la playa

After hours of flight and transfers to other planes, bus to bus and dragging some giant bags around we are finally in Uruguay.  The owner of the Hostel failed to return our phone calls upon arrival so we did what any sane person would do... We found a bar!  While sitting there enjoying our drinks a gentlemen approached us and offered a deal...

He said "Tengo un casa en la playa para acquired"  

Un casa en la playa? Si?

So we looked it over-

Stove works, shower runs, sink drains, five beds for 4, equipped with dishes, neighbor lighting fire crackers at all hours, feral cats and dogs roaming the roads, fridge works- makes a weird noise though, a little dusty, a little musty... a little air fresher will clean that up... Gotta buy some Raid. Ocean sounds all day through the windows, Uruguayan hippies with dreadlocks surfin' the sea, fresh fish,  bathroom sink wont stop running, grass in the sand, ocean water on the grass... Rock climbing 50yards from our porch, water landing, billions of seashells to choose from, thunderous booms of lighting at 3:00am, wild winds, pounding rain, flooding kitchen while making eggs, more rain, the sun breaks, mild sunburn, shirtless weather, can't believe there are hippies here.

So here I sit on our porch at "Punta del Diablo", a small town with small houses and friendly locals. The beer you buy by the liter, the food is greasy, trinkets and bamboo wind -chimes line the docks. Necklaces with shells and fish spines hang on display, local wood is cut and plained for construction of beach homes, thatched roofs, no ATM's, dogs will greet you... Shoo them away, cats will follow you... Don't be afraid to bark at them. Food is cheap, the weather is great, life is much slower, don't get hit by the mopeds, enjoy the smells of the ocean and food, eat before the shops go for siesta, buy the beers in large  quantities.... Because it won't last, sit on the beach, climb some rocks, sun bathe,  make friends, don't pet the dogs, and enjoy life at Punta Del Diablo!

As the locals say.....  CHOW!

We have landed in Buenos Aires

Woooo this place moves fast! Look both ways before crossing the street, then look again.  We are here for a day then to Uruguay for a week to spend the holidays on the beach. Then the hell of humping 300lbs  of equipment Under the Towers.

Looking forward to it!